www.ahernbrucker.com- Fine Jewelry - US Military - Ahern & Brucker

 fine Military Jewelry from our

"Basic Man's Ring Collection" tm

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Welcome to our Shop & Studio.

A well made ring.

 If "Rolex" made Military rings, they would make this one.


Please take a moment to discover exactly what separates our ring from the "others".

You may notice that our edges are sharp and crisp, there is no sloppy soldering, even the anchor chain is super detailed... the letters are not simply "plated", they are "Capped" with white gold.  and the finish is that which can be had only after hours of hand polish (approx 5 hours) not including stone setting by hand... and, not just by the hand of an apprentice but, an actual master goldsmith. 

Upon further inspection, you will see and feel how solid it is and is generously weighted. The stones are alive and  bright, that which you would expect to go into a fine ring...

 Look a little closer at the inside, and you will see it is inlaid  in the opposite color gold...If you were a goldsmith or a connoisseur of fine jewelry, you would inspect the holes under the stones to see if they  are "high shined"... (they are)

 Yes, we could cut all of the corners, instead of spending a few hours making each wax perfect before casting, we could eliminate that step and instead of a 12 hour burnout, we could reduce it to 2... instead of using newly refined gold for 100% of the ring, we could just keep reusing our old scrap at a mixture of 50-50. and instead of hand polishing every detail,  we could simply toss them in a tumbler for a few hours and call it "good enough"...

but "good enough" for who?



For our customers mediocrity in not acceptable and complacency has no room in their world, they understand the value of a job well done and what that requires... and how very rare it is to find now days... at any price.

For those people, we dedicate our services.

This ring is a combination of lost wax casting and hand fabrication both done by Master goldsmith Carol Ahern (30+ years of custom work).

This ring like all of the work we produce is  perfect in every respect starting with the gold we use (all newly refined, no "scraps" from previous jobs) to the final polish.

The natural gem stones are matched in size and color, cut from the same rough and are selected for the ring size to be in perfect proportion.

    The ring weighs a little more than 1 oz of 18k in a size 10 1/2.

The fouled anchor with the letters representing "Unity-Service-Navigation" are in 18k yellow gold with 18k white gold letter caps. This is a 5 piece ring. the MCPO ring is 7 pieces and the senior chief ring is 6 pieces. (not including the set of 6 gem stones all perfectly set by the hands of a master.)


The following photos show some of the steps that went into making this fine ring.

The wax model and selecting the Gem stones.


Diamonds are V V S / d-e and the ruby & sapphire are of equal quality. we personally select (high grade) each matching stone set.  We determine the stone sizes by the size of the ring. (every ring is in perfect proportion)


Outline of emblem on wax sheet

trial and error

hand carving the emblem


this took a monumental amount of time to get it right..


nope, still not right.


after casting using all newly refined gold (not old gold melted and reused) this assures the finest possible finish and assures you your ring is not made of "scrap gold" which has less value..





Milling the sheet for letter caps

We cap the emblem with 18k sheet vs. gold "plating"...

this is a major pain in the arse but, it's the right way to do it.


Cutting the letters caps in 18k sheet


Measuring letter caps





Soldering letter caps to Emblem















Rough polish of band


Soldering emblem to band











Now, the ring is ready for stone setting. these are all professionally  set by Carol.


Stone setting...


there are a couple ways to set stones... the easiest is to set the stones in the wax and cast... called "cast in place".

the other way of course is the right way to set stones...se below.



Before final hand polishing


And with perfect ingredients and a lot of effort and time by a seasoned goldsmith, the result is a Masterpiece.









 this is the way a well made ring is made. It's not easy, fast or cheap.... anything less is simply compromise.




What can we make for you?

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