www.ahernbrucker.com- Fine Jewelry - US Military - Ahern & Brucker

 fine Military Jewelry from our

"Basic Man's Ring Collection" tm

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Welcome to our Studio & Shop.

A well made ring.

 If "Rolex" made Military rings, they would make this one.

There are only 2 ways to make a ring...

    #1:The correct way

   #2: The easy way.

Please take a moment to discover the correct way..

First, notice that our edges are sharp and crisp, you see no sloppy soldering, the anchor chain is finely detailed... If you look close, you will see the letters are not simply "plated", they are "Capped" with white gold. and the gem stones are alive and bright. and the finish?? Perfection.

It doesn't get that way by accident

Sizing. There are 2 ways to sizing when making a ring... one is to make a ring specifically in the customers size. for example, all proportions from a size 9 to a size 10 are increased... another way is to simply  stretch the size 9 into a 10. One way is right, the other is the fast, inexpensive lazy man's way of making a ring.

We spend hours on perfecting the wax before casting and hours finishing and assembling after. Most military jewelry simply goes from wax to metal to the tumbler and in a box.

We "hand set" the gem stones instead of pre-setting them in the wax as in "cast in place". This gives us an opportunity to high shine the azures (stone holes). and one big reason for that is,  if your going to buy premium gem stones, you certainly don't want to encase them in a dirty setting... So, hand setting is correct way "along with" the highest possible finish to the azures..

The ring is generously weighted and perfectly balanced, when you feel this ring, you will be happily surprised. It's not "thinned down" to meet some arbitrary price point.

Also, we make our rings with all new gold or other "precious metals" . While practically every manufacturer will use some combination of scrap to keep costs down (as much as 50-50)  we send our scrap back to the refiner. I know in my personal rings, there is no way I'm using scrap. It may be fine for some but if  it's not good enough for me, it's not good enough for our customers.

 Look a little closer at the inside, and you will see it is inlaid  in the opposite color gold...Why does this matter as only us and the customer can see it.? A finely made ring is "supposed" to look as good on the inside as the outside. It's the "whole" ring that we make and not just the outside.

We use a 12 hour 7 stage burnout cycle instead of 2 or 3 hours. Why does this matter? well, this combined with using new gold makes for a much better casting, reducing greatly the number of pits and porosity that can happen by  speeding things up before there time and overusing or burning the alloys in the gold.

Now,  a look at the finish... this is the level of perfection that can be had only after hours of hand polishing and not simply tossed  in a tumbler for a few hours and called "good enough"... This makes a big difference.

 

 Yes, we put a lot of work, thought, money, time and pride into making our rings, all of the corners that "could" be cut aren't. and that's why this is probably one of the nicest military rings in the world.

Our customers have no use for mediocrity or complacency and understand the value of a job well done and what that requires... and how very rare it is to find these days...

For those people, we dedicate our services.

This ring is a combination of lost wax casting and hand fabrication both done by Master goldsmith Carol Ahern (30+ years of custom work).

The natural gem stones are matched in size and color, cut from the same rough and are selected for the ring size to be in perfect proportion.

    The ring weighs a little more than 1 oz of 18k in a size 10 1/2.

The fouled anchor with the letters representing "Unity-Service-Navigation" are in 18k yellow gold with 18k white gold letter caps. This is a 5 piece ring. the MCPO ring is 7 pieces and the senior chief ring is 6 pieces. (not including the set of 6 gem stones all perfectly set by the hands of a master.)

 

The following photos show some of the steps that went into making this fine ring.

The wax model and selecting the Gem stones.

 

Diamonds are V V S / d-e and the ruby & sapphire are of equal quality. we personally select (high grade) each matching stone set.  We determine the stone sizes by the size of the ring. (every ring is in perfect proportion)

 

Outline of emblem on wax sheet

trial and error

hand carving the emblem

 

this took a monumental amount of time to get it right..

 

nope, still not right.

 

after casting using all newly refined gold (not old gold melted and reused) this assures the finest possible finish and assures you your ring is not made of "scrap gold" which has less value..

 

 

 

 

Milling the sheet for letter caps

We cap the emblem with 18k sheet vs. gold "plating"...

this is a major pain in the arse but, it's the right way to do it.

 

Cutting the letters caps in 18k sheet

 

Measuring letter caps

 

 

 

 

Soldering letter caps to Emblem

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rough polish of band

 

Soldering emblem to band

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, the ring is ready for stone setting. these are all professionally  set by Carol.

 

Stone setting...

 

there are a couple ways to set stones... the easiest is to set the stones in the wax and cast... called "cast in place".

the other way of course is the right way to set stones...se below.

 

 

Before final hand polishing

 

And with perfect ingredients and a lot of effort and time by a seasoned goldsmith, the result is a Masterpiece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 this is the way a well made ring is made. It's not easy, fast or cheap.... anything less is simply compromise.

 

 

 

What can we make for you?

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