www.ahernbrucker.com- Fine Jewelry - US Military - Ahern & Brucker | |||
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__________ Taking orders for Navy
CPO
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___________ __________ Brokers/Rep's Retail stores
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Welcome to our Studio & Shop. A well made ring. If "Rolex" made Military rings, they would make this one. There are only 2 ways to make a ring... #1:The correct way #2: The easy way. Please take a moment to discover the correct way.. First, notice that our edges are sharp and crisp, you see no sloppy soldering, the anchor chain is finely detailed... If you look close, you will see the letters are not simply "plated", they are "Capped" with white gold. and the gem stones are alive and bright. and the finish?? Perfection. It doesn't get that way by accident
Sizing. There are 2 ways to sizing when making a ring... one is to make a ring specifically in the customers size. for example, all proportions from a size 9 to a size 10 are increased... another way is to simply stretch the size 9 into a 10. One way is right, the other is the fast, inexpensive lazy man's way of making a ring. We spend hours on perfecting the wax before casting and hours finishing and assembling after. Most military jewelry simply goes from wax to metal to the tumbler and in a box. We "hand set" the gem stones instead of pre-setting them in the wax as in "cast in place". This gives us an opportunity to high shine the azures (stone holes). and one big reason for that is, if your going to buy premium gem stones, you certainly don't want to encase them in a dirty setting... So, hand setting is correct way "along with" the highest possible finish to the azures.. The ring is generously weighted and perfectly balanced, when you feel this ring, you will be happily surprised. It's not "thinned down" to meet some arbitrary price point. Also, we make our rings with all new gold or other "precious metals" . While practically every manufacturer will use some combination of scrap to keep costs down (as much as 50-50) we send our scrap back to the refiner. I know in my personal rings, there is no way I'm using scrap. It may be fine for some but if it's not good enough for me, it's not good enough for our customers. Look a little closer at the inside, and you will see it is inlaid in the opposite color gold...Why does this matter as only us and the customer can see it.? A finely made ring is "supposed" to look as good on the inside as the outside. It's the "whole" ring that we make and not just the outside. We use a 12 hour 7 stage burnout cycle instead of 2 or 3 hours. Why does this matter? well, this combined with using new gold makes for a much better casting, reducing greatly the number of pits and porosity that can happen by speeding things up before there time and overusing or burning the alloys in the gold. Now, a look at the finish... this is the level of perfection that can be had only after hours of hand polishing and not simply tossed in a tumbler for a few hours and called "good enough"... This makes a big difference.
Yes, we put a lot of work, thought, money, time and pride into making our rings, all of the corners that "could" be cut aren't. and that's why this is probably one of the nicest military rings in the world. Our customers have no use for mediocrity or complacency and understand the value of a job well done and what that requires... and how very rare it is to find these days... For those people, we dedicate our services.
This ring is a combination of lost wax casting and hand fabrication both done by Master goldsmith Carol Ahern (30+ years of custom work). The natural gem stones are matched in size and color, cut from the same rough and are selected for the ring size to be in perfect proportion. The ring weighs a little more than 1 oz of 18k in a size 10 1/2. The fouled anchor with the letters representing "Unity-Service-Navigation" are in 18k yellow gold with 18k white gold letter caps. This is a 5 piece ring. the MCPO ring is 7 pieces and the senior chief ring is 6 pieces. (not including the set of 6 gem stones all perfectly set by the hands of a master.)
The following photos show some of the steps that went into making this fine ring. The wax model and selecting the Gem stones.
Diamonds are V V S / d-e and the ruby & sapphire are of equal quality. we personally select (high grade) each matching stone set. We determine the stone sizes by the size of the ring. (every ring is in perfect proportion)
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